Biking Seattle

Gasworks Park

The sun has been out in Seattle, and so last weekend I hopped on the bike and headed down the hill to Gasworks Park.

Gasworks is one of the more interesting public spaces in Seattle – a lush green lawnscape surrounding the rusting industrial hulk of a decommissioned gasworks plant.

Sunny day in Gasworks

The relics and shadows of a city’s industrial past always give a silent siren call to me; for some reason the abandonment elevates the interest level.

There’s something about urban decay which allows you to feel an almost intimate connection with the spaces. The lifelessness of machinery sitting bereft of purpose provides a canvas for unconscious stories. A city is meant to be lived in, and items left behind, no longer contributing to the life of the city, can be all the more interesting for it.

Gasworks Park brings this decay, normally found in derelict warehouse districts or on the edge of industrial yards, into a vibrant center of public space. It’s this contrast which allows a rusting hunk of metal to add unexpected beauty to the greenery surrounding it.

The tangled metal piping of the gasworks stands in the middle of the park. The bulk of it is surrounded by a fence, discouraging the climbing and exploration (and trouble, certainly) the structure would otherwise bring. But there are some outlying parts of the plant which are accessible, standing right in the middle of the grass field.

On this day, most of the park’s inhabitants ignored the rust-covered metal to soak in the sun. A group of friends had set up shop behind a pavilion in an area with picnic tables I didn’t know existed before. There we ate, drank and played bocce, soaking in the sunlight and the humanity which had the same thought as us on how to spend the day.

Seattle skyline from Gasworks

So far, all the photos I’d taken while biking were with my iPhone. Perfectly serviceable, but I realized I hadn’t taken any pictures of the Ship Canal Trail on my last trek, and it made a good excuse to bring along my slightly better camera to try and capture some nice fall shots.

The South Ship Canal Trail, under the Fremont Bridge

The start of the trail under the Fremont Bridge (well, start for me – I suppose a decent number of people think of it as the end of the trail) is exactly the kind of otherwise-hidden spot I wouldn’t see without heading out on a bike. As I don’t live next to it, I would have been unlikely to walk to the trail, and driving above on the Fremont Bridge you hardly know this quiet spot exists down below.

The trail starts by passing under the bridge, then pops out the other side in a different world. Despite the traffic above on Fremont Bridge, the fallen leaves, grassy bank of the ship canal and ring of trees create a pocket of quiet and near-solitude,except for a few bikers and joggers going by.

Further along, the character of the trail changes, turning more industrial as it approaches the Ballard Bridge. The bucolic scene of leaves and grass moves to a paved-over experience, leading through the back entrance of parking lots for waterfront businesses. The short trail provides a quick transition between the postcard-friendly sights and the everyday commerce of Seattle.

After a slow ride west stopping for photos, I made a quicker trip back east. As I reached the Fremont Bridge, I decided to continue along the water instead of turning north and heading for home. I haven’t ridden much south of the ship canal, and my knowledge of Seattle geography is still iffy, so it didn’t really dawn on me that I was tracing my way south along the west side of Lake Union, riding along an access road lined with parking stretching the entire way, until the line of buildings between my path and the lake stopped, opening up into a small park space giving a vista across.

I pulled out my small tripod and managed to get a few shots of the evening lights around the lake before my camera battery gave out, and I headed home. I hadn’t intended on taking the detour south when I headed out, but it gave me another reminder of how relatively small the city is.

Evening light on south Lake Union